Blog Archives

la processione

Later on the day of the saint’s feast, Santa Rosalia was carried on a procession through the town. A trio of priests led the way, and a marching band followed. The saint is heavy – and top-heavy, too – so there were frequent stops. The local residents followed on the sidewalks or crowded into the street.

Because our visit was well-known in Bivona and because we’d met the Mayor earlier that day, he was kind about waving us into good positions in front of the procession. And the townspeople were also very nice about our participation in an event that was a sacred day for them but which could have easily been perceived as a novelty to us. It was easy to get caught up in the magic (which is a thing that sounds like an easy cliche, but it really did feel that way).

Bivona, Sicily
photographed 9.4.2022

cleaned fish

Just the night before, these fish had been swimming around in the Mediterranean. And when I saw them, they were being cleaned (quickly, by someone with a lot of practice) before maybe heading across the market to the man wearing a red apron frying up platters of fish.

La Vucciria Market
Palermo, Sicily
photographed 8.30.2022

the sunglasses guy

This sunglasses vendor was happy to pose for a picture. I mean, I don’t speak Sicilian and he didn’t speak English, but I’m assuming that my request to photograph him, which included a gesture toward my camera, was answered in the affirmative, because he struck a pose.

Palermo, Sicily
photographed 9.1.2022

mixed use street

We’d found this market during one of our daytime meanderings. It was bustling, full of activities like the one guy who was cleaning the night’s catch of sardines or the other guy who’d set up a kitchen beside an arcade and was frying up plates of fish or the people using the public fountain to wash dishes or the people enjoying lunch.

But then we heard the place takes on a whole new feel after dark – it was described to us “as like a disco” – so of course, on our last night in Palermo, we had to go see. It was different. It was a lot different. The fish cleaners and fish fryers were gone. No one was doing the dishes. And of course it was too late for lunch. But there were even more people than we’d seen in the daytime. There was a little place selling aperol spritzes. There were tiny cafes all over the place. There were diners. There were pedestrians. (There were four American photographers.) There were motorbikes threading their way through it all.

It was hard to leave.

La Vucciria Market
Palermo, Sicily
photographed 8.31.2022

net repairs

In addition to selling fish from their boats, the fishermen use their afternoon at the docks to repair their nets. They’ll be heading out again in a few hours, and make good use of every minute.

I can get a giant tangle in thread just attempting to sew on a button. Watching these two doing something more complicated and much more fiscally important than fixing a button made me feel really quite inadequate in sweing-needle-based activities.

Sciacca, Sicily
photographed 9.5.2022