Blog Archives
the committee, at rest
The men who are entrusted to carry the saint on her procession are all members of a family that’s been doing this important task for centuries. When we asked how that family was originally chosen, our guide said it was so long ago that no one knows. That sort of dedication to a saint, to personal beliefs, to a community is admirable. And is something that I do not believe I’ve witnessed before.
Thank you for your patience as I presented all these photos of Sicily. It took me several months to commit to making the trip; finally making the commitment to go was one of the best decisions that I have ever made. So, here’s my Big Important Advice: don’t put off doing that thing that you think you want to do but aren’t sure about it because this might not be the best time or your schedule might be too tight to make it work or what about that other thing that you’ll miss at home (or at the office) if you go. If you CAN, you should.
Bivona, Sicily
photographed 9.4.2022
la processione
Later on the day of the saint’s feast, Santa Rosalia was carried on a procession through the town. A trio of priests led the way, and a marching band followed. The saint is heavy – and top-heavy, too – so there were frequent stops. The local residents followed on the sidewalks or crowded into the street.
Because our visit was well-known in Bivona and because we’d met the Mayor earlier that day, he was kind about waving us into good positions in front of the procession. And the townspeople were also very nice about our participation in an event that was a sacred day for them but which could have easily been perceived as a novelty to us. It was easy to get caught up in the magic (which is a thing that sounds like an easy cliche, but it really did feel that way).
Bivona, Sicily
photographed 9.4.2022
cleaned fish
Just the night before, these fish had been swimming around in the Mediterranean. And when I saw them, they were being cleaned (quickly, by someone with a lot of practice) before maybe heading across the market to the man wearing a red apron frying up platters of fish.
La Vucciria Market
Palermo, Sicily
photographed 8.30.2022
the sunglasses guy
This sunglasses vendor was happy to pose for a picture. I mean, I don’t speak Sicilian and he didn’t speak English, but I’m assuming that my request to photograph him, which included a gesture toward my camera, was answered in the affirmative, because he struck a pose.
Palermo, Sicily
photographed 9.1.2022
mixed use street
We’d found this market during one of our daytime meanderings. It was bustling, full of activities like the one guy who was cleaning the night’s catch of sardines or the other guy who’d set up a kitchen beside an arcade and was frying up plates of fish or the people using the public fountain to wash dishes or the people enjoying lunch.
But then we heard the place takes on a whole new feel after dark – it was described to us “as like a disco” – so of course, on our last night in Palermo, we had to go see. It was different. It was a lot different. The fish cleaners and fish fryers were gone. No one was doing the dishes. And of course it was too late for lunch. But there were even more people than we’d seen in the daytime. There was a little place selling aperol spritzes. There were tiny cafes all over the place. There were diners. There were pedestrians. (There were four American photographers.) There were motorbikes threading their way through it all.
It was hard to leave.
La Vucciria Market
Palermo, Sicily
photographed 8.31.2022
