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mixed use street
We’d found this market during one of our daytime meanderings. It was bustling, full of activities like the one guy who was cleaning the night’s catch of sardines or the other guy who’d set up a kitchen beside an arcade and was frying up plates of fish or the people using the public fountain to wash dishes or the people enjoying lunch.
But then we heard the place takes on a whole new feel after dark – it was described to us “as like a disco” – so of course, on our last night in Palermo, we had to go see. It was different. It was a lot different. The fish cleaners and fish fryers were gone. No one was doing the dishes. And of course it was too late for lunch. But there were even more people than we’d seen in the daytime. There was a little place selling aperol spritzes. There were tiny cafes all over the place. There were diners. There were pedestrians. (There were four American photographers.) There were motorbikes threading their way through it all.
It was hard to leave.
La Vucciria Market
Palermo, Sicily
photographed 8.31.2022
this felt like a secret
This looks like a scene from a World War II movie, with the rubble, the courtyard, the motorcycle hiding in the shadows. And while there was significant and pivotal action on the island during the way, I am pretty sure this scene wasn’t a relic.
So, how pivotal was the action in Sicily? Here’s what History.com has to say:
The invasion of Sicily, code-named Operation Husky, began before dawn on July 10, 1943, with combined air and sea landings involving 150,000 troops, 3,000 ships and 4,000 aircraft, all directed at the southern shores of the island. This massive assault was nearly cancelled the previous day when a summer storm arose and caused serious difficulties for paratroopers dropping behind enemy lines that night. However, the storm also worked to the Allies’ advantage when Axis defenders along the Sicilian coast judged that no commander would attempt amphibious landings in such wind and rain. By the afternoon of July 10, supported by shattering naval and aerial bombardments of enemy positions, 150,000 Allied troops reached the Sicilian shores, bringing along 600 tanks.
Sciacca, Sicily
photographed 9.2.2022
wednesday night at quattro canti
Our neighborhood in Palermo was perfect for our photographic explorations; it was easy to fill our time with wandering through the streets. There was always something interesting to see, and, naturally, to photograph. The streets were vibrant, full of activity.
This is at the intersection known as Quattro Canti, the center of the historic quarters of the city. It was always busy, and nighttime made for some interesting photos.
Have I mentioned how much I loved Sicily?
Palermo, Sicily
photographed 8.31.2022
street-side braids
Based on how many times lately I’ve mentioned the joys of exploring Sicilian streets, it’s probably safe to assume that part of the trip made a big impression on me.
In the US, there’s an urban planning thing right now called “complete streets” which is defined by Smart Growth America this way:
Complete Streets are streets for everyone. Complete Streets is an approach to planning, designing, building, operating, and maintaining streets that enables safe access for all people who need to use them, including pedestrians, bicyclists, motorists and transit riders of all ages and abilities.
I can’t argue with the premise, but the results are way less organic that what I recently saw. For example, the opportunity of getting street-side braids is NEVER listed as a thing that ought to happen. Yet, here in Palermo, a braider and an apprentice braider are busy – and they’re working right there on the street.
It was glorious.
Palermo, Sicily
photographed 8.31.2022
both sides of the street
This? Just a little scene I happened to notice that day we walked through Caltabellotta. I loved those narrow streets, with evidence of lives being lived at every turn. It was invigorating and interesting.
This particular scene caught my attention because the mirror reflected the other side of the street (which wasn’t all that far away) and showed how, even though I was standing in the shade, right behind me was full, intense, and direct sunlight. Plus I liked the mailbox and the streaks of paint on the walls. Plus, as you know, I fell in love with Sicily.
Caltabellotta, Sicily
photographed 9.5.2022
One Day | One Image 